Friday, December 18, 2009

Dispatch Number 52 -The System

Before I left on this journey into The Americas people were all to happy to tell me how how corrupt and violent Central America would be when I got there. American tales and American fears projected onto anyone who would listen to help them validate their fears and confirm how smart they were not to travel to these savage uncivilized places.

Even my dentist was concerned that I would not be able to get my teeth cleaned, as if there would be a total absence of the dental profession where I was going. I listened and frowned then had my teeth cleaned in Mexico and Panama. Camus said it best in The Stranger, One always has exaggerated ideas about what ones doesn't know.

Then a year into the journey it happened. A bribing situation arose when a Nicaraguan traffic cop told me to pull over at a check point. It was a good time to speak very little Spanish. He began by expressing pleasure that I was wearing my seat belt then promptly found problems with my out of date car papers and lack of an emergency triangle. I lied and said I had flares, but that didn't help since I did not know the word for flare nor could I produce one. Then came the explanation:

I will hold your licence while you go to the bank to pay the fine, then you can return for your licence. Or you can pay here.
Here?
Yes, here.
How much is the fine?
$20 dollars.
Twenty, that's a lot.
Then how much?
Aha, I thought what a fair system they have here in Nicaragua the amount of the fine is up to me, I counter with, $5 dollars
$10?
No.
$5 dollars.
OK.


That was my first bribe and the experience was well worth the five dollars and time spent haggling. I suppose that will make some people happy back home, a vindication of sorts. I was prepared to go through the legal process of receiving the multa, ticket and visiting the bank to settle it.

While traveling I have observed a dichotomy between the Law Abiding foreign traveler who criticizes the corrupt nature of Latin American institutions (an ingrained part of the culture), then the same person is more than happy to "pay" a bribe when they get themselves into a sticky situation. Can't have it both ways I say.

Contrary to all the fear mongering I heard prior to leaving the U.S. I have found all interactions with federal and municipal authorities in Central America to be professional and prompt. Thus far, my experiences have been the furthest thing from uncivilized. In general, the people of Central America are friendly, open and helpful to the stranger. Had I listened to the exaggerated ideas people had about places they knew nothing about I might not have been able to tell you otherwise.


David
Casco Viejo, Panama

5 comments:

66 Underachiever said...

I trust none of the people warning you of corrupt governments or judicial systems in Latin America were California residents.

TC said...

Boy that brings back memories of the late 80's driving to Encenada with a certain someone in a black CRX when the federalies pulled along side waving pistols.....I forget our bribe though.

66 Underachiever said...

Just think, some poor fool's driving around in that CRX right now, wondering why cops and guys looking for their girlfriends keep pulling him over and kicking his ass.

Traveling Dave said...

Timmer and Brian,

I not sure I should feel proud or shameful after your notes!

Yes, the CRX and the pistol waving Mexican Police men in that dumpy sedan with lights held to the roof with wood screws...the things you forget until a friend drops a reminder.

And that was the saddest day I ever experience selling a car...the day I sold that black CRX. I watched a kid drive off with it while I held the wad of cash in my hand feeling like the only woman I ever loved left me. Stunned and staring blankly into the street where the car once stood. After that I kept buying cars that went faster and cornered even more viciously.

David
Portobelo, Panama

66 Underachiever said...

Be proud, it's more fun when you're telling the stories.