A leather-faced cow herder waved us to stop at a broad curve in the road where he was shoveling dirt into potholes that burst out everywhere like pimples in the asphalt. He was working this remote section alone while his few cows munching on high plains grass that looked better suited to weave with. This scene is normal on back-country roads in Latin America, the poor get a shovel to patch holes in hope drivers will proffer tips for their labor. They do make a difference, but there are always more potholes than repairmen. Every age participates, from 7 year old boys to old peasant women.
On the drive to Chavin we crossed the famed Cordillera Blanca in search of a sulfur hot spring in the heart of the Andes, it was here we met the smiling Peruvian herder on the road. The peasants, or campesinos who live in this remote cold dry environment have red-brown weathered complexions. Age guessing is hopeless, they all look older than they are, the impassive faces of children have bright red-rosy cheeks that look painted on.
I offered a lollipop instead of a coin. He had one of those broad natural smiles that gave the appearance he smiled all the time. His teeth were badly decayed though lined in silver, like picture frames highlighting what was left.
He was pleased with the candy and surprised me by asking, Do you have an old newspaper?
We were near a low mountain pass in the middle of nowhere, not a single house in sight. I love to read and was charmed he asked for a daily and dearly wished I had one to give.
He was pleased with the candy and surprised me by asking, Do you have an old newspaper?
We were near a low mountain pass in the middle of nowhere, not a single house in sight. I love to read and was charmed he asked for a daily and dearly wished I had one to give.
We exchanged pleasantries then drove on while the next driver ignored his plea for a tip leaving Cow Man in a whirl of road dust.
David
Lima, Peru
David
Lima, Peru
7 comments:
love the snapshot of the road. also good to see azulita is doing well. been enjoying your new updates!
love the photo, you need to put up more. I always like visuals to a story.
Also like the U2 style glasses.
Stephanie and Dana,
Stephanie, hard to believe it was just a couple years ago when we set foot into Mexico on that rustic desert adventure camping most the time. You were tough. I remember driving the truck pretty hard over the dirt roads and you gripping the dash bar with big eyes and a shit-eating grin loving the outback parts of Baja with windows down and dust swirling through the cabin. It was a great start to the journey.
Pictures...yes. When I was in The Netherlands I broke down and bought a laptop at the encouragement of a friend who writes so I would write more, so after two years using public Internet services with sticky keyboards and thick paper journals I now have my own system, which means I can manage and catalog photographs better.
The trouble is I feel like I am collecting material things again and that makes me feel less free. I dream of selling the big truck, downsizing it all and getting into an old VW bug to compete the journey.
Bukowski said it best:
Everything you own must be able to fit into one suitcase and then you might be free.
David
Lima
It's OK Dave to have a few things...
Yo no puedo creer que estuve regresando de mi viaje por Peru, Bolivia y Chile y que tu estabas en Lima en mis dos ultimos dias en esa ciudad y que no pude verte wow!! increible.
besos.
Vanessa
Quito
Yeah, get that old VW bug Dave.
I'm currently driving and old Mitsubishi Magna with broken down power steering, mismatched ill fitted boot and rattly noisy muffler, It still surprises me when it starts first go and manages to make to make long journeys. The only thing that surprises me more is that the aircon still works.
It's definite freedom not worrying if someone scratches your car runs into it or steals it. Heck I've been keying my own car and running shopping trolleys into it for a laugh
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